Restaurant Review: José, Tapas and Sherry Bar, Bermondsey

There are times in life (usually involving some form of ex-relationship) when you look back and think: “What on earth was I thinking?” In a similar but less emotionally-draining context, I look back at my recent wisdom teeth operation and my rather over-booked calendar immediately afterward, and wonder how I’d completely failed to predict the unrelenting stabbing pains in both sides of my jaw, the need for a constant cocktail of painkillers and my resulting inability to think straight for more than three seconds.

Add to this my newfound ability to squirt water from my mouth back out through my nose like an attention-seeking seal, and things were not looking good. A trip back to Guy’s Hospital confirmed my suspicions. The bad news: the operation had accidentally made a small hole between my upper gum and sinuses. The good news: there was a chance that it might heal itself and I might be spared another round of general anaesthetic. Woo.

To cheer myself up, despite not being able to chew with my back teeth, I decided to pay a trip to nearby Bermondsey Street to check out José, the still new-ish tapas and sherry joint by José Pizzaro (of Tapas Brindisa fame).

Continue reading Restaurant Review: José, Tapas and Sherry Bar, Bermondsey »

Anatomy of a Real Food Blogger

2004. The year I wrote my first ever blogpost. At the time, most blogs I knew were online diaries. A way to talk to the world about whatever the hell you felt like. And by ‘world’, I mean a small group of friends and voyeuristic acquaintances, who read your blog because no-one had heard of Facebook yet. It was public, yes, but personal too.

In 2009, I started a food blog about learning to cook Japanese — something not many people were writing about, at least in English. It was the perfect project; I adore writing, photography (I’m that mildly arty kid who grew up to too lazy to carry a sketchpad or wash paintbrushes anymore) and dabbling in web design.

In 2010, I took myself off to culinary school, and wrote a (rather sporadic) blog about that too. Then, during my last term, I hatched a plan for a new blog; in fact, the blog you’re reading now.

Yet another blog? my friends cried. Yes, but this time I was going to do things properly.

It took months to design. I went hosted, installed WordPress.org. Spent hours agonising over fonts and column widths, playing around with colour palates in Photoshop.

All because I wanted to be one of those bloggers. Food Bloggers, with capital letters and all. The ones that get invited to so many free meals, they don’t have to spend a penny on their social life. The ones that get sent on free PR-organised foreign trips. The ones that parlay their stats into book deals. The ones that newspapers quote every time they need to get hold of a ‘real foodie’.

I thought I could do it — I could work hard, grind away, treat the blog like a job. I’d have a launch party, contact all the right people, hit every new restaurant the minute they gingerly open their doors. I could prostitute myself, my writing, my readers. After all,  didn’t I need to? How else to afford all those meals out? How else to source endless bottles of wine and expensive nibbles for my food-blogger-populated parties?

But then, as quickly as the fever descended, it lifted. When push came to publish-button, I just couldn’t do it. I couldn’t turn the personal into propaganda.

They say a writer should write the novel they want to read. And when it comes to food blogs, I want to hear the truth; boring, unsexy, real as it may be. I want to know what you really think, not what your favourite PR wants to hear.

A great food blog should be a dialogue, not another avenue for brand exposure.

So I ask: food bloggers out there, where to you stand? Where do you draw your line?

It’s time to decide.

Because this time, it’s personal.

Real Food Bloggers… Those Food Bloggers…
Pay for their own meals. …”dined as a guest of XYZ Restaurant/PR.”
Take photos because food is beautiful. Take photos that crop well to 250-by-250 px for TasteSpotting.
Have one decent-looking plate that’s used for all their pictures. Have a props cupboard.
Spend £600 on an eating holiday. Spend £600 on a bloggers conference.
Introduce themselves by their name. Introduce themselves by their Twitter handle.
Guard their chocolate stash jealously. Guard their stats jealously.
Disappear for several weeks because, well, life happens. Schedule posts so you never know where they actually are.
Shudder when they hear ‘monetise’. Spend money to hear how to ‘monetise’.
Think a book deal is a ’3 for 2′ at Waterstones. Think a book deal is a good reason to start their own pop-up.
Think offers of freebies must be spam. Think offers of freebies are their inalienable right.
Find this list a little bit funny. Have now unfollowed me on Twitter.

TigerBites: Ramen Mondays @ Roka

Miso vs. Soy/Cha Siu

In his book and TED talk The Paradox of Choice, Barry Schwartz puts forward the notion that too much choice can definitely be a bad thing. It stresses us out. It paralyses our decision-making. The thought of opportunity cost freaks us out.

He’d approve, then, of Ramen Mondays @ Roka. Down in the stylish, swanky depths of the Shochu Lounge, there’s no menu this lunchtime. It’s down to a choice of miso or soy (aka cha siu, according to the waiter/bill — puzzling). Both come with thinly sliced pork and a variety of toppings (no choice, of course).

As I arrive, I overhear two (possibly) Japanese ladies giving their feedback to the waitress, who thanks them profusely and promises to pass on their thoughts to the chef. Unfortunately, I’m too far away to hear exactly what said feedback was, apart from that the soup may or may not have been hot enough.

My non-ramen-expert view was: a warm satisfyingly-large bowl of noodles, just what you need on a chilly Monday lunchtime, plush (if rather dark) surroundings, attentive service, pricey green tea (£2.60, I think, with free refills).

Verdict: Would return. As long as it’s still winter.

 

Ramen Mondays @ Roka (Shochu Lounge)
37 Charlotte St, London W1T 1RR
12-2pm, £8.60
No booking
NB: Can also order dishes from normal menu

Review: +(65)/plusixfive Supper Club, London

There was a pile of shoes in the hallway.

I wondered if this was at our host Goz’s request, or a lemming-like response started by someone with good East-Asian manners and thick socks. Either way, I reluctantly kicked off my loafers and, barefoot, followed our waitress (one of Goz’s friends) up into the living room-cum-kitchen. Like most modern flats, it was all wood floor and white walls, but jazzed up in this case with funky framed artwork, including a large bright-red ‘plusixfive’ poster painted on wood.

We were running a bit late, so the two tables (each with around eight seats in total) are full with happily chatting diners. They find us two seats, and thankfully we’re just in time for the first course.

Continue reading Review: +(65)/plusixfive Supper Club, London »

Italy Food & Wine: Winery Visit in Chianti, Tuscany

Tuscany. Land of cypress trees, holidaying Englishmen and, of course, Chianti.

There’s a tiny enoteca in the village, selling dusty bottles of local wine, and grappa in clear glass bottles shaped like bulbous ships. Classy, I sniff. To my horror, the boyfriend wants to buy one.

We can drink wine here? I ask the shopkeeper in my halting Italian. There’s light coming through the back of the shop, and I’m wondering if there’s a hidden bar out there – after all, doesn’t enoteca sometimes mean wine bar?

He smiles and beckons with a wrinkled hand, giving the universal signal for ‘walk this way’. We follow him round the back to a set of stainless steel vats. This is his wine, he says. A vino bianco and a vino rosso, both table wines, along with a few IGTs (wine-geek translation: wine that is typical to the region, a classification step-up from table wine). He pours us samples in tiny plastic cups. They’re a bit too rough-edged for my liking, but that’s fine – I know my drinking partner is going to buy a bottle anyway, as a souvenir. Anything’s better than ship-shaped grappa, anyway.

I make small talk with Mauro in Italian; I reckon we both understand about 60% of what the other is actually saying. His vineyards are in the countryside, he says, up in the hills where it’s cooler. This summer has been cold, too cold. He’s not happy. It better get warmer soon. Oh, and would we like to see something special?

We duck into another small back room, and Mauro lifts the lid off a squat metal vat and pulls out a ladle filled with glistening grassy-green olive oil. He motioned us to dip our fingers in. Throwing health and safety to the wind, we do as we’re told. The olive oil hit me right in the back of the throat – it’s so fresh, so … spicy. Molto piccante, I say to Mauro, who nods. It’s so good it keeps for up to two years, he says.

We buy a litre bottle (a real steal at around €8), which we soak up with some local bread back at our hotel. Our only regret is that we didn’t buy more – we go back on our last morning in the village, but the shop is closed. Moral of story: when you find some good olive oil, buy as much as you can carry.

As for the rest of Chianti’s wines: it turns that while vineyards are two-a-penny along the roadside, along with the many wine shops that line the twisty turny Chiantigiana (the region’s main highway), finding an actual winery to visit is rather more difficult. Unlike some other wine destinations, the producers here often ‘don’t have time for tourism’, or so said one website. Best to write in advance, or even better, know someone who imports their wines, advised my go-to source of Italian wine knowledge, Juel of Wine Woman & Song.

Unfortunately, a lack of organisation, internet connection and Tuscan wine-trade connections meant that a ‘proper’ wine visit is off the cards, at least this time.

Thankfully, Castello di Verrazzano, just a short drive from our hotel, turns out to be just the perfect ‘Dummies Guide to Chianti’ experience.  Their charming winery tour and tasting – tailored for the general tourist, but still interesting if you’re ‘into your wine’ and new to the region – provides a potted history of the Verrazzano family (Giovanni da Verrazzano was apparently the first European since 1000AD to explore the east coast of North America – take that, Columbus), a tour of the castle grounds (sadly, no wild boar to be seen that day) and cellars (dust-covered bottles, giant barrels of Chianti Classico), and finally a hearty lunch of Tuscan charcuterie, cheeses and a tasting of four of their wines (the 2007 Chianti Classico was my favourite, though none blew my mind). They also let us sample their aceto balsamico and finished up with a tasting of their vin santo, the local sweet wine, with cantucci to dip. A dessert combination made in heaven.

Check out the Castello di Verrazzano website for their range tasting and tours, which can be booked in advance online. (Thank you, modern technology.)

Next up: browsing Tuscan cured meats and sampling over 100 wines in Greve in Chianti…

Sourdough Class with Virtuous Bread

I had to have a little debate with myself before I wrote this post. Many months ago, before this blog started, I was invited to a sourdough class taught by Jane Mason. This was in the days before I had to go bashing on about Real Food Bloggers, so I happily accepted her no-strings-attached offer to take part in the class.

Fast forward to today, and I had a dilemma: I thought her class was wonderful, far better than another (shorter) sourdough class I’d also been to. Unfortunately, by my own standards, I couldn’t in good faith give you a genuine review of the class, because I hadn’t paid for it.

In the end, I came to the conclusion: I would write about Jane’s classes at Virtuous Bread, because frankly, it was a great class and writing about it feels like the right thing to do. And my only defence on the cost issue would be: at the time, I was mid-way through burning a five-figure sum on culinary school fees, and in fact skipped over £100-worth of cook school that day to attend Jane’s class.

And, I have to tell you, it was well worth it.

***

It’s a sunny day, and morning light glints off the Thames through open balcony doors and into Jane’s riverside apartment kitchen. I’m having a serious bout of home interiors envy, from the immaculate airy living room to the cosy long kitchen in which the class in currently lounging, sipping tea and coffee and nibbling on toasted sourdough.

Jane is a passionate teacher – but even better, she’s a reassuringly down-to-earth one. Sourdough can be a notoriously scary topic. I’d had one class where the teacher had made it sound like a cross between rocket-science and A&E – you had to treat your sourdough starter with kid gloves, take it on holiday with you, and basically, spend your life trying not to kill it.

Here, though, was a completely different philosophy. Jane told us the story of how she’d found a sample of her rye starter in the back of her fridge from five years ago. She got it out, fed it and hey presto, it came right back. Now that’s the kind of thing I want to hear.

The class are mostly sourdough nuts. One guy has driven down from somewhere up north and stayed in a hotel over night to come to the masterclass. A few are here because they come from countries with long sourdough traditions and can’t buy the breads of their childhood in the UK, so want to make their own.

We start a rye-starter-based country loaf, then retire to Jane’s aforementioned gorgeous living room to talk sourdough. How to start one; how to keep it going; why it’s good for you; and one nugget of advice I’d not heard before: never ever ever mix rye and wheat when feeding your starter.

(Okay, so now that I’ve ‘grown-up’ a bit in my sourdough adventures, I’ve found this not to be entirely true, but it’s still damn good advice when you’re starting out.)

Next up, a 100% rye loaf using a rye-starter. It’s like playing with clay; a total mind-shift for anyone used to wheat-based bread dough. We decorate ours with a blend of seeds and optional molasses, but then promptly forget the order in which we left our breads, leading to much detective work at the end of the class to determine whose loaf is whose.

We hand-shape our country loaves, then leave them to rise, either free-form or in bannetons.

Jane tells us about her work outside the bread classes. She bakes in a prison kitchen near London, teaching the prisoners to bake with sourdough as they’re not allowed to bring baker’s yeast into the building. She’s working on converting the chef’s favourite Italian breads into sourdough versions. She teaches in local schools. She also runs baking business workshops (her Bread Angels scheme) to guide people in setting up bakery businesses from home. She is, to put it mildly, a busy lady.

We roll out rye cracker breads and sprinkle them with aromatic seeds. The class is having such a great time chatting, we almost burn a few batches as they languish in the oven, unattended.

At the end of the day, we pack up our country boules, rye loafs and cracker breads, full in the knowledge that we can make great sourdough bread.

Sourdough is a huge topic, with enough to keep your learning for the rest of your life. Jane’s class is a fantastic introduction to this world, giving everyone the confidence to go out and get baking, without the Fear of Killing of Your Sourdough.

And after all, it only takes four days to make a new one. What are you waiting for?

 

For class dates and prices, see the Virtuous Bread website.

Cookbook Review: Mary Berry’s Baking Bible

French Apple Tart | Victoria Sandwich

A few months ago, thanks to a dangerous cocktail of flattery, curiosity and temporary unemployment, I agreed to bake six cakes in the space of two days for a special someone’s office leaving party.

Six cakes: all different, all classic crowd-pleasers. How hard could it be?

One slight snag: as mentioned before, I’m not much of a cake person. Until now, I’d managed to get through life without a single cake book or baking tin. But now was a chance to up my (non-existent) game.

First, I needed some foolproof recipes. No time for a trial run; these cakes had to be perfect first time round. Plus nothing leaves you feeling as cheated as a badly-tested cake recipe, apart from the tragic end result itself.

Cue a trip to the baking aisle at Foyles. Amid a gazillion books on the OCD-esque art of moulding sugarpaste into inedible Stepford-Wife-worthy flowery creations, amid the vegetable cakes, the cupcakes, the cakes on sticks, I found exactly what I was looking for.

Mary Berry’s Baking Bible. ‘The only baking book you will ever need,’ said the blurb. And if all you want is to simply make delicious, classic, home-baking-style cakes, which bring back memories of cosy afternoons round the kitchen table, a pot of tea and slice of cake on a patterned plate, licking crumbs off the table when no one’s looking, then this is, indeed, the only cake book you’ll ever need.

Out of the 250+ recipes, we whittled the choice down to six: a Victoria Sandwich, Carrot Cake, Gateau Moka Aux Amandes (Coffee Cake with Almonds), Lemon Drizzle Traybake, French Apple Tart and Chocolate Fudge Cake.

Then time to head to Divertimenti to spend an eye-watering amount on cake tins of varying sizes and shapes, and then onwards to stock up on enough flour, eggs, butter and sugar to last out a siege. The plan was to bake four of the cakes on Day 1, then bake the last two and ice them all on Day 2.

The hardest part was sticking to the recipes. Surely two lemons wouldn’t be enough. And why not jazz up a plain sponge with a splash of coffee essence? But I resisted and put my faith in the Queen of Cakes. The only change I made was to use 70% cocoa solid chocolate instead of the 39% plain chocolate that Mary Berry dictates.

And sure enough, every single recipe worked. Despite the ungodly amount of sugar in and on top of the Lemon Drizzle Traybake, it turned out gorgeously moist and perfectly tangy. The Gateau aux Moka, with a plain whisked sponge covered in a coffee crème-au-beurre and toasted almonds, was divine; light yet satisfyingly creamy.

Lemon Drizzle Traybake

So, the verdict:

Pros:

  • A large comprehensive collection of classic cakes, traybakes, cupcakes and cheesecakes.
  • Crystal-clear instructions, with measurements in grams and ounces, and temperatures for both gas and fan ovens.
  • A list of handy baking tips – obvious to those who bake a lot, but indispensible to the novice baker.
  • Foolproof recipes – a winner every time.
  • A killer chocolate brownie recipe – crispy on top, dark and dense within. Again, if you like dark chocolate, use it.

Cons:

  • Only a few pictures per section, so if you’re the kind of person who needs a photo per recipe, you may get frustrated.
  • If you’re looking to create more wedding-style, fondant-covered cakes, this isn’t the book for you. But not to fear, there’s definitely not a shortage of other such books out there.
  • There’s a short bread section, but if you want a book on bread, buy a book on bread.

 

Carrot Cake

So what’s your go-to cake book? Do you have a favourite cake recipe that’s never been known to fail?

Tried and Tested Recipe: Japanese Cheesecake

 

So here’s a dirty little secret. I’m not a cake person.

I know, it’s like saying I enjoy drop-kicking puppies in my spare time. But I’ve never bought into this knee-wobbly nostalgia for a really good Victoria sandwich, or licking cake mix out of the bowl with your fingers. Give me a leg of pata negra with candles stuck in it, any time.

It took until my mid-twenties to find a cake that I was actually willing to make. So naturally, this wasn’t just any cake. It was, simply, the lightest, airiest, most delicious cake that I’d ever taste. The fact I’d never seen such a confection in the shops clinched the deal – if I wanted more, I’d have to bake it myself.

My flatmate took one glance at the recipe, and gave me a look that indicated I was attempting the culinary equivalent of buying a swimsuit, waving at France and jumping head first into the Channel. But I was adamant: this cake was the one.

So, to the amusement of visiting friends, we formed a little baking double act: her, rolling her eyes every time I covered the kitchen counter in more flour and cake mix; me, asking highly complicated technical questions such as ‘How do you actually separate eggs?’ and  ‘Fold? How the hell do you fold a bowl of gloop?’

The result was, well, a little bit eggy when warm, but almost as good as the original version when served fridge-cold the next day.

Many many cakes on, this one’s still my favourite. Happy baking.

Continue reading Tried and Tested Recipe: Japanese Cheesecake »

In Brief

Culinary school graduate.
Umami addict.
Wine junkie.
Londoner.
Writer.